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Fredericksburg Herb Farm

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Cultivation
The Varneys have seated their share since planting the Star Garden and renovating the stone house. In addition to creating the other gardens they refurbished the small barn as a second gift shop and candle manufactory, turned one of the other buildings into a day spa with professional masseuses, and remodeled the midwife's cottage into a cozy bed-and-breakfast. A few years ago, they constructed a multipurpose building whose front half serves as the company office, warehouse, and manufacturing facility and whose back half, overlooking the Secret Garden, serves as their home.

Store at the Fredericksburg Herb FarmThey also opened a restaurant that features herbs and vegetables grown on-site, demonstrating the way fresh herbs can be used in foods. "I cooked for the restaurant for three or four years," Sylvia says, "but the restaurant expanded, and we hired a chef." In creating recipes, Sylvia says, she rarely re-invents the wheel. "I often adapt old recipes to what I need to accomplish, and new recipes are a combination of brainstorming, what I have on hand, and what I know works." It sounds easy, but Bill has another take. "Sylvia is so intellectual it's scary," he says. "When she cooks, she's like a scientist; she measures and checks everything."

Recently, Sylvia attended Peter Kump's Cooking School in New York. " I wanted to improve my cooking credentials," she says, "I took an intensive program in culinary techniques where I Really got the backbone of cooking. I though it would make me a better writer, too. It certainly created a demand at home — Roy will say, "Oh, Mamma, couldn't you cook something from Peter Kump's?"

The Varneys retail and wholesale business continued to flourish as well. They now manufacture about six hundred products on-site, including beauty and bath products, perfumes, scented candles, and herbal food products and teas. All their cooking oils and vinegars contain herbs grown on the farm. Often their products and fragrances are developed by Sylvia and Bill, but employees and even Roy lend a hand. One example is Fleurs de Redstone, a fragrance inspired by wildflowers that grow on the famous Redstone Ranch. Other scents are based on fruits and spices as well as herbs and flowers. All their scents have stories behind them, most of which have been penned by Sylvia.

candle making at the Fredericksburg Herb Farm StoreMaking it all happen takes a staff that now numbers 30. When the employees threw a Christmas party for the Varneys a couple of years ago, Sylvia looked around at them and their families, then said to Bill, "You know, it's overwhelming that we're responsible for this many people." But maybe not surprising. Shirley Keyser, who's been with the Varneys since the first little shop on Main Street, says, "They are fun people to work with and easy to get along with. " And as office manager Gil Becker puts it, "How many places can you look out your office window and see an herb garden growing?"

The Varneys still make four or five presentations around the country each year, lecturing on herbs and their uses. They used to do more, but with everything else that was going on, the schedule became too taxing. Instead, they instituted an annual, weekend-long Herb Festival in mid-April, where they and other herb experts teach classes, serve food, listen to live music, and celebrate everything herbal.

Through it all, Sylvia has kept at her writing. "Being a writer is humbling and frustrating as well as gratifying and exciting," she says "Rice taught me to work very hard at whatever I was doing and not to do anything halfway. I learned to expand my horizons and not give up on myself. Those lessons have carried through, both in working with my husband on the farm and in my writing."

Sylvia returned to campus in 1989 to participate in the Rice Publishing Program, then offered by the Rice School of Continuing Studies. "I wanted to improve our catalog as well as my own writing," she says. "I can't say enough good things about the program. I was inspired to go back home and modify my approach to the catalog — to not just say, 'Here's the product and here's what it costs,' but to use a more holistic approach and integrate all we did into a nice smooth braid of cooking, cosmetics, health, and spirituality."

Her fresh ides eventually resulted in the Varneys' two books, Along the Garden Path (review in the summer 1996 Sallyport) and Herbs" Growing & Using the Plants of Romance and in a quarterly newsletter, Farm Family, now in its fifth year. Farm Family enables the Varneys to reach a wider audience of people interested in growing and using herbs. "Sylvia is a phenomenal writer," Bill says. "In addition to or books and the newsletter, she does all our labels, press releases, and articles." Sylvia acknowledges Bill's tremendous support. "He's often the impetus for many of the ideas. It's a real gift to have somebody who loves what you write and yet who can be as effective as he is in saying, 'Well, you've almost got it, but not quite.' He couldn't be a better coach."

Harvest Thyme

Seeds

Cleaning the Land

Planting

Cultivation

Harvest

by:
Christopher Dow
photos by:
Tommy LaVergne

Originally
Published in
Sallyport
The Magazine

of Rice University
Summer 2001

Click on any of
the small photos
to view full size

 

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